First, we headed east to I5 and then south to Eugene, Oregon, which is where the University of Oregon is (and as of tomorrow the track and field tryouts for the Olympics begin) and saw plenty of sun. We stayed at a wonderful B&B called Oval Door Inn in a room filled with antiques and our own private jacuzzi tub, which we thoroughly enjoyed. The tub was actually too long to lie down in without holding on, but it felt so good after 5 hours of driving. We had dinner at Cafe Zenon, and determined that the chef was not there on Sundays for the much-touted food was only fair, however our B&B owners had left some delicious oatmal chocolate chip cookies, so we had enough to eat. Driving around the town, we saw beautifully kept homes with wonderful flowers by and large -- and some stores we'd all but forgotten, like Target!!
Headed out late the next morning for some wine tasting after a breakfast that included an asparagus omelette. The first and only place we stopped (although there were many other options but we'd been completely spoiled) around Eugene was King Estate (photo of the chateau above). We tasted 6-7 of their wines and fell in love with and bought three. Their 2006 domaine pinot gris is a crisp, but full bodied white that is a perfect summer wine served very cold. Their specially bottled 2006 pinot noir called Journey Red is simply divine now and for the next year or so. And Sandy fell for one of their dessert wines, a 2006 Muscat in their Craftsman series, that tasted like a poached pear and will be sublime served over the same.
We then sat on their beautiful terrace overlooking acres of grapes just beginning to grow and had lunch. We could, and probably will, talk about this lunch for a long time. We began with a salad made with freshly-picked butter lettuces, perfectly ripe slices of avacado, and peeled and absolutely scrumptious grapefruit sections all happily dressed with a carmelized shallot, fresh basil, and oil salad dressing. Then Sandy had crab cakes which were kissed with balsamic vinegar and absolutely delicious, served with a braised onion and canteloupe balls, and Eva totally enjoyed a cheese and fruit plate including locally made Oregon blue, Manchego, and brie, and some very tasty local grapes. We enjoyed some of the wines we'd purchased and confirmed how smart we were to buy them -- especially after stopping later at two more vineyards and scrunching up our faces in disgust.
Then we headed east over the Cascades via the McKenzie and Santiam passes where we enjoyed views of Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington, and the three sisters. We stayed at The Riverhouse and had a room with a fireplace (that we used as it
was dry and cold at night) directly overlooking the Deschutes River which we could hear all night long rushing along outside. We'd come to Bend (which was a teeny drive-though town 30 years ago when Sandy first was in the area and which has become a destination itself thanks to winter skiing nearby, white water rafting in the spring and early summer, and lots of golf during three seasons of the year) to see Mary Schlegel, a long time friend of Sandy's. Mary at 84 is living in a retirement home (which is close to her daughter Cass who lives in Bend and insisted she move there about 10 years ago). Sandy and Mary had worked together in Seattle 30+ years ago and have kept up in their fashion all these years. Mary and her husband moved to Seattle and lived aboard an 85' yacht moored in Lake Union and provided many entertaining outings. But Les died about 8 years ago hauling a Christmas tree home from the nearby woods and Mary is hanging in there, still feisty, beautiful, and independent with her wings kinda curbed by the lack of a car. She has found a giant Irishman whom she pays to drive her and her girlfriends around town. We spent the day with Mary and went out for lunch and some shopping, enjoyed the High Desert Museum (which had been the sight of her granddaughter's recent wedding and where we learned that early settlers to the area had to commute 10 days each way to a town large enough to have provisions for them -- made us laugh about our whining over our 45 minute commute for groceries from Bay Center!!), had a nap, and finished up with dinner
at Greg's Grill which is right on the Deschutes River. We ate Alaskan salmon grilled on alder while watching people inner tube, kayak, and canoe past us and hundreds of geese going upstream to nest. And while we were east of the mountains, we had nothing but sun and fabulous views of the three sisters (see photo at right) and Mt. Jefferson.
After some sale shopping the next day, Eva and Sandy drove back west over the mountains by a different pass through Salem, Oregon and on to McMinnville where we spent the night at the Hotel Oregon, now owned by McMenamin's, but which was one of the original 1850s buildings in the town. And at night, it felt like it as we were kept awake by girls giggling and doors slamming, but we had enough rest to start off the day with organic and utterly delicious breakfast at Cafe Crescent in town and then headed out for more wine tasting.
We stopped first at Anne Amie, with absolutely gorgeous gardens lined with giant lavendar. We felt it was almost too early to taste anything, but managed to try several (and were charged to do so for a change). We bought a 2006 pinot gris, again for immediate summer enjoyment, and partly because of its neat label. We went on to the Carlton Winemakers Studio where 10 vintners produce wine, each under their own label. So we tasted a variety of wines here -- Sandy enjoyed an Andrew Rich sauvingnon blanc but it was too expensive to purchase and Eva liked and purchased a 2005 Boedecker Cellars pinot noir that one of the few women vintners, Athena Pappas, had designed. And then home with views such as this one of Mt. Jefferson below across Suttle Lake.
We had a marvelous time and barely touched the surface of Oregon or Northwest wines, which began years ago with Washington's St. Michelle brand and Oregons' Eyrie vineyards and now includes hundreds of interesting vintners and vineyards.

