Today, as Tiger Woods is facing a future without golf, we are watching the arrival of the runners from all parts of the state who run, walk, crawl to get to the shrine of the Virgen of Guadalupe here in Merida. There are red roses at the altar and many who come to discuss things with the statue or meditate on their own, always stopping to genuflect before the Virgen before leaving the church. The young men who run in barefoot from the pueblas are the most interesting to us. In some instances, a truck or car accompanies them and they run in relays so someone is always running, but each gets a break. True devotion and sacrifice.
Yesterday, we witnessed the changing of a traffic light, Merida style, which involved 5 policmen. One was on a ladder actually doing the work while the other four "managed" traffic around him. No donuts sighted, but overkill. Ellen commented that here the traffic police, who wear navy blue uniforms and flak jackets, are called the equivalent of Smurfs.
And we stopped at our various utilities to prepay just so we don't have to be worrying about paying each month or bi-monthly. At CFE, our electric company, the woman cashier asked 3 times if we were sure we meant to pay more than the bill. She could not get over the idea of paying for something you have not yet used.
Across the street from us is a restaurant called La Choperia, a type of beer. Last week was their first anniversary in business and they had a big party, to which we were invited for free food and drink. We spoke with the owners when they were first opening to wish them success but to ask them to "keep it down" noisewise so that we would not be disturbed. And they have been scrupulous about doing so. We have never been disturbed or woken up by them, which we appreciate. The anniversary party was another story, however, noisy until about 2 in the morning with giant screen videos and a very loud sound system. Not a problem for us, though as we closed the doors and turned on fans for white noise. Unfortunately, the gift shop, also across the street, was robbed. A trio of two adult men and a boy 12 years old had robbed a home for disabled children a week or so earlier and then robbed the gift shop of about 46,000 pesos. The police were over there all one night jumping the fence to try to apprehend these three, which they did. The gift shop emptied out all the goods for a week and now is back in business as usual. No one was hurt, as the shop and restaurant were closed when the robbery took place.
We are back seeing our friends, making new ones, and enjoying Merida. Last night, we went to the performance at Peon Contreras of the Messiah and suffered through a mezzo and baritone who should have stayed home, but quite enjoyed a young Yucatecan soprano named Claudia Rodriguez. The orchestra was wonderful.
A moment of synchronicity occurred. As a young teen, I had a friend who lived in NYC but visited her dad in Lake Forest named Julie Preston. We had not kept up in decades but I read a book she'd written before we moved here called Opening Mexico. Julie had been a reporter for the NY Times and was stationed in Mexico City for a long time, and clearly had a great grasp on the history and politics of the country. When I read her book 5 or so years ago, I sent her an email to the paper explaining we were moving to Merida and how much I had enjoyed her book. So much so that 5 years later, I was still recommending Julie's book to a friend here who said she wanted to learn more about the politics of the new country she lived in. The very next day after my recommendation, I got a phone call from a woman named Bonnie who was here in Merida visiting with her friend Sheila who works in Turkey but has a home here. Bonnie had gotten my telephone number from Julie Preston whom she knew from her sometimes work at the Times!! So, after a 40 year hiatus in our acquaintance, Julie popped back!!
We are looking forward to hosting Marilla and Rhodri (who arrive 25th December to escape the snow and cold of Chicago) which will make our holidays complete!!!
