Flew on Aviacsa to Mexico City and bussed from there to Cuernavaca, our home for the week. Easy bus, a little less than 2 hours, about 110 pesos each person each way, and not too much walking from the baggage claim all the way down the terminal to the floor below where the bus leaves, Krispy Kreme at the corner where you make a left to the bus at the airport!!
Stayed at La Nuestra, B&B, hosted by Andy and Nancy, mainly Andy. Four guest rooms, no frills, but OK for $70 per night per room. Hard beds, quiet except for barking dogs down the street somewhere. Filling breakfasts with raspberries in the fruit each morning, eggs often, bread, usually some type of breakfast meat, juice, and lots of coffee.
Cuernavaca is built around 7 ravines so there are not any straight streets, many hills, and almost no charm. Ate VERY well however!!
El Madrigal (SONORA 115, COL. VISTA HERMOSA, 777 100-7700) -- newish and quite nice
Terrarium
Gaia (new and in the former home of the old movie star, Chintenflas or something like that)
Las Mananitas (my new favorite restaurant any where – 4 hour lunch)
Caprichio (lunch looking for Ibiza bar on Morelos Sur)
Provence (French, a bit odd, and rich food)
Didn’t get to the Indonesian place, Matahari or the pretty Indian but there is always next time.
Saw Robert Brady’s house, Palacio Cortez, and Jardin Borda. And saw the new art museum, Muros, containing the art of Natasha and Jacques Gelman—lots of Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and others we didn’t know, plus a whole ultra-modern floor.
Since driving was so worrysome, we'd hired Felix to be our driver for several days, mainly for sightseeing but ultimatly, we had him take us everywhere. Taxco is a city on the hill, very steep, cobbled streets, pretty renovated cathedral Santa Prisca, and innumerable silver shops, most containing what we’ve seen for years in Cancun but some with more interesting things. Nothing worth buying for us. Almost took a ride down the hill on a cable car but it just looked too dangerous and we decided to keep our lunches in our stomachs and not try to be brave.
Saw Parque Nacional Grutas de Cacahuamilpa == amazing caves with 40 foot ceilings and no end in sight, along the way.
Tepoztlan – hilly, about an hour drive from Cuernavaca, wonderful market, interesting old cathedral, felt great there, rustic, with good clean air. Ate lunch on the far side of the church and a little down the hill from it, nice garden spot. Then Felix drove us hours to see some pots and finally home.
Gardens everywhere in this part of Mexico are fabulous, due to clement weather all year long, good dirt, and enough rain or watering. Wonderful spring (city of eternal spring) feel, but no soul.
We came back to Merida with a very large lizard made from paper maiche, which proved a bit troublesome on the plane, but he now safely guards our coffee table.
our pictures are at: http://picasaweb.google.com/necshs1/Cuernavaca2006
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